![]() This will be made worse if you are shooting handheld. One is parallax – the changing position of foreground and distant objects when you change the camera position. There are two issues if you’re quite close, especially with a relatively wide lens. ![]() Panoramas work best when you’re some way away from the scene and the objects within it. Most stitching tools can cope with multi-row panoramas as easily as a single pano sequence, but they are harder to shoot and they mean tilting the camera up and down, which can cause different levels of convergence, or keystoning, between frames. Panoramic photography lets you go as wide as you like, so you have to know when to stop! 5. You can fit the width in a print or a browser window, but the vertical height is so small that everything in the scene looks tiny, and it all looks a bit rubbish. More than that, and the image becomes too wide. Often I’ll shoot a six- or seven-frame pano and only use two or three or four frames. The wider you make your panoramic ’sweep’, the more of the scene you capture – but you also create incredibly wide aspect ratios that end up being unusable. All you need is 2-3 overlapping frames to get a ‘wide’ shot like this. Don’t get greedy This panorama has worked out well because it’s a wider shot than you usually see but still has a sensible aspect ratio. You need to keep the camera as level as possible, so try a wider lens or move further away. It’s tempting to tilt the camera upwards to capture tall buildings, but this introduces a different vertical convergence for each frame, which can make problems for your stitching software. It means taking more shots horizontally to cover the angle of view you need, but that’s not much of an issue – and you’ll end up with a bigger, higher resolution panorama, too. If you turn the camera through 90 degrees you’ll capture more vertical height. Very often you’ll be shooting a panorama because you can’t get enough in the frame – and that applies vertically as well as horizontally. Good panoramic photography does involve going to a little more trouble. A tripod will help you cut wastage from cropping, but you MUST get the pan axis level before you start, otherwise the horizon will fall away as you turn the camera. You can shoot a simple two- or three-shot panorama handheld, estimate the overlap between frames and get a decent result, but you’re likely to lose more of the image when it’s cropped because of slight changes in height between frames. Panorama projections are different to wideangle shots Here’s my cropped pano, and it’s a 64MP image captured with my 26MP Fujifilm X100V. Panoramas don’t just give you a wider angle of view, they give you more pixels too. Here are some things I’ve learned, usually by doing them the wrong way first. You can do this in Lightroom, ON1 Photo RAW, Capture One and lots of other photo editing applications.īut while today’s panoramic stitching tools are extremely good at blending overlapping frames seamlessly, you still need to get a few things straight (ha!) before you start. ![]() You just shoot a series of overlapping frames (an overlap of around one-third is about right) and then use panorama stitching tools to blend and merge them seamlessly. Panoramic photography is a great way to capture more of a scene than you can in a single frame, or to produce a ‘wide’ shot with an extreme aspect ratio as a creative effect. Handheld panoramic photography is perfectly possible, but you can lose a lot of the image when you crop it if your framing drifts.
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